English bespoke tailors have been drafting out, cutting and making up bespoke suits for hundreds of years and are greatly proud to be known for the famous style the pioneering London Tailors have created. So what exactly is the English cut that makes a good bespoke suit, often referred to as the Savile Row Cut.
I won’t bore you with technical information about trimmings canvassing, padding etc. I’m referring to the iconic hours glass silhouette with the numerous features including a highly cut waist on the coat and of course the trouser, if you are thinking about iconic Fred Astaire bouncing about and tapping across a stage wearing his beautifully tailored suit whilst waving his cane freely to the beat )Which of course only made possible with the suits coat having highly cut armholes you’d be on the right track.
The shoulders are soft yet with a robust roping that commands an authoritative silhouette that drapes in a wonderfully balanced hour glass silhouette. London tailors will make the clear point when compared to other suit styles how and why it differs, for example the Classic American ‘Sack’ cut as a lower more relaxed waist with a slightly more boxy silhouette due to the proportions of the shoulders and waist line, typically the trousers will be less tapered but again looser fitting.
The Italians Tailors are famous for their nod to the more casual styling, the suits more often than not will be made up in a super fine wool, linen or cotton which makes them more suitable to wear within the Mediterranean climate, when it comes to the suit cut, think of very soft shoulders with a slightly lower yet more taper waistline.
Italian bespoke suits are more often entirely made by hand including the buttonholes which have claimed fame over the channel, if you walk down Savile Row today the classic bespoke suit will often have an Italian Milanese hand sewn button hole proudly sitting at the edge of his lapel.
Find out more about bespoke shirts and suits from London.