nav-left cat-right
cat-right
Recent Comments
  • Mr Shoeman: Great read about wedding suits. I have tried wearing one dur...
Random Articles
The English Tailored Suit English bespoke tailors have been drafting out, cutting and making up bespoke...
Bespoke Wedding Suits Bespoke wedding suits have always been a popular subject within the Savile...

The English Tailored Suit

English bespoke tailors have been drafting out, cutting and making up bespoke suits for hundreds of years and are greatly proud to be known for the famous style the pioneering London Tailors have created. So what exactly is the English cut that makes a good bespoke suit, often referred to as the Savile Row Cut.

savile row cut

savile row cut

 

I won’t bore you with technical information about trimmings canvassing, padding etc. I’m referring to the iconic hours glass silhouette  with the numerous features including a highly cut waist on the coat and of course the trouser, if you are thinking about iconic Fred Astaire bouncing about and tapping across a stage wearing his beautifully tailored suit whilst waving his cane freely to the beat )Which of course only made possible with the suits coat having highly cut armholes you’d be on the right track.

The shoulders are soft yet with a robust roping that commands an authoritative silhouette that drapes in a wonderfully balanced hour glass silhouette. London tailors will make the clear point when compared to other suit styles how and why it differs, for example the Classic American ‘Sack’ cut as a lower more relaxed waist with a slightly more boxy silhouette due to the proportions of the shoulders and waist line, typically the trousers will be less tapered but again looser fitting.

The Italians Tailors are famous for their nod to the more casual styling, the suits more often than not will be made up in a super fine wool, linen or cotton which makes them more suitable to wear within the Mediterranean climate, when it comes to the suit cut, think of very soft shoulders with a slightly lower yet more taper waistline.

Italian bespoke suits are more often entirely made by hand including the buttonholes which have claimed fame over the channel, if you walk down Savile Row today the classic bespoke suit will often have an Italian Milanese hand sewn button hole proudly sitting at the edge of his lapel.

Find out more about bespoke shirts and suits from London.

Bespoke Wedding Suits

Bespoke wedding suits have always been a popular subject within the Savile Row tailoring circles, probably because there are certain rules that people have followed over the years that have been twisted broken and bent. The traditional morning coat or as some call it the frock coat is such a wonderful thing.

Perfect sharp lines are the most important keeping the handmade essence of the truly wonder two-piece outfit. On such occasions like formal weddings people have traditional chosen a well-tailored three-piece suit or a bespoke morning suit also in a three piece, quite often with a sharp made to measure waistcoat that can often come in a double-breasted.

You will notice that peaked lapels are also a favourite with the edge stitching highlighting the beautiful points and strong sharp lines along the coats lapel.

When making a formal coat from scratch it is important to note that some rules can be broken but not all. Quite often a well-tailored wedding suit will have a black tail coat or some call it a frock coat, a high waist grey stripe trouser and a different coloured waistcoat, usually sand coloured or a pastel colour like blue would be a good example.

blue suit with brown shoes

gorgeous blue suit perfect for wedding

Whilst on the subject of blue some opt for a well tailored blue lounge suit for a wedding some opt for electric blue some opt for a softer colour its up to you really, the beauty with opting for a more lounge orientated suit is you can actually wear it after the special day so you can get more life out of the outfit and wear it after the wedding for work, very special occasions like birthdays other peoples weddings, anniversaries and dinners, in fact you can even break up a nice blue suit so you can wear the trousers with different coloured blazers or wear the navy blue blazer with a different coloured pair of trousers or jeans even cotton.

With that said whilst we are on the subject of sports jackets and broken wedding suits we have certainly seen a resurgence in double breasted suits and double breasted sports jacket, the golden rule for breaking up a double breasted suit usually is making sure it is well tailored and well fitting and this will avoid a boxy finish and lend itself to a slim fitting silhouette with a nice v taper and a nice European romantic element to the outfit.